In recent years the National and International wine territories have invested time and capital in the better understanding of the richness and geological composition of their soils.
Chianti Classico is not an exception to the rule; the territory covers a good 70,000 hectares around just two cities; Florence and Siena. In the last few years it has undertaken an infinite number of works and careful, detailed studies in order to fully understand the different soils and microclimates.
The key to the incredible differences between the various areas is found by looking into the composition of the soils at different altitudes which generate different tasting profiles and allow the plants to express themselves in diverse ways.
The zoning of Chianti Classico leads to sub-zones and to be able to explain the main principles of an area to consumers in a simple manner it’s necessary to speak to the professionals in that sector in a very complex way. What could be better?
Because of this some of the historic wineries in Chianti Classico have moved a little early sensing the importance of this classification. One in particular is the splendid property of Marchesi Mazzei.
Situated in Castellina in Chianti, Mazzei extends over 110 hectares of vineyards and some of those which are located in adjacent areas show very different characteristics and profiles when in the glass. Radda and Castelnuovo Berardenga.
The principle riches of Mazzei today, other than being able to trace the family back for 24 generations and having a glorious past, is surely that of being able to have vineyards of different ages, different altitudes, different growing systems, different root-stocks and clones and a close knit team who are really just part of a great enlarged family.
In 2017 after years of work and study of his soils he anticipated the zoning of the Chianti Classico territory, sensing the importance of showing the different characteristics of the different parcels of land.
This is how three great wines were born which will be the joy of collectors and Gallo Nero lovers: Badiola produced in Radda, Castello Fonterutoli in Castellina and Vicoregio 36 in Castelnuovo Berardegna.
Three different terroir and the three distinct profiles which show in the main core of Radda are freshness, acidity and verticality in a wine which shows a more delicate profile in the glass but is an explosion of energy on the palate, with that delicate power that WinesCritic.com celebrates and loves.
The terrain is prevalently made up of galestro and sandstone and benefits from fresher daytime temperatures with the vineyard situated at 570 metres a.s.l.
Postponed budding, late maturation and harvesting around mid-October give a fragrant and really vertical Sangiovese.
At Castellina in Chianti the microclimate is the result of a perfect balance between a medium-high hilly area and vineyards which are faced towards the Val dell’Elsa which omits heat over the whole area. This is where Castello Fonterutoli was born
In anticipation of the Chianti Classico denomination’s Gran Selezione summit, the 2014 vintage being the first. Even as far back as 1995 the Mazzei family intuition allowed them to dedicate a label to the best selection of 11 plots, naming it Castello Fonterutoli and which is now a reference point for all the great 100% Sangiovese produced in Castellina in Chianti.
Strong thermal movement and a soil rich in albarese rocks give a perfect combination of elegance, structure and flavour.
The last area, certainly not so in importance, is Castelnuovo Berardenga which produces Vicoregio 36.
A particular name which suggest a study, or an in-depth study of every last detail. And that is what it is, the 36 stands for the 36 biotypes of Sangiovese identified and selected for the production of this rare label.
Fifty years of studying the Sangiovese vine finally brought the first ever bottling in 2017. The son of an extraordinary terrain characterised by an illuminated plateau rich in albarese and sandstone which affect the strong thermal movements between day and night, perhaps more so than in the other three territories.
We are at 350 metres a.s.l. and here the Sangiovese expresses a warmer version of itself, intense, with a rich colour and an explosive bouquet.
These three pure Sangiovese place Mazzei at an extremely high level, mixing – in the best possible way – knowledge, study, futuristic vision and by reading a market that is looking for elegant but decidedly strong wines which may be enjoyed straight away or kept in the cellar and which are surely presented in the most beautiful possible way from the geographical reading to the really important difference in the glass.
During the visit to Marchesi Mazzei there was also time to taste Concerto, Siepi and Codice V which have really put the finishing touch to an impressive qualitative growth of a winery capable of blending the past and the future in the best possible manner.
After having tasted the wines in preview with Francesco Mazzei please see my personal comments about the tasting and the different labels:
Vini Rossi
| Produttore | Denominazione | Vino | Annata | Score | Tipo | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mazzei | Chianti Classico | Vicoregio 36 Gran Selezione | 2018 | 97 | Rosso | |
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È a tratti balsamico il profilo principale di questo solido Sangiovese che regala pienezza sensoriale nelle note di prugne nere, more selvatiche, rosa canina, agrume arso, bergamotto e mallo di noce. Corpo medio, tannini polimerizzati perfettamente fusi ed un finale radioso ed essenziale che regala qualità ad ogni sorso. Eccezionale fragranza del frutto ed armonia di beva spiazzante. |
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| Mazzei | Chianti Classico | Badiòla Gran Selezione | 2018 | 97 | Rosso | |
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Eccentrico e vibrante il profilo sensoriale dinamico e luminoso che si regala in una miriade di sentori che ricordano le ciliegie, i fiori di arancio, la buccia di limone, i fiori di tiglio ed il gelsomino. In sottofondo la calendula ed il graspo spezzato regalano armonia sensoriale e profondità. Corpo medio, tannini rifiniti ed un finale di estrema bellezza. Meglio dal 2023. |
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| Mazzei | Toscana | Siepi | 2018 | 97 | Rosso | |
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Iconico e regale mostra una bellezza floreale che alterna la lavanda a sentori di ibisco, gerani bagnati, asfalto caldo e bacche di ginepro. Una cornice di nuance agrumate si descrive con succo di pompelmo rosa, pepe rosa, cannella in polvere e caramello dolce. Corpo pieno, tannini leggermente rigidi ben fusi ad una matrice ricca di materia ed un finale che verticalizza dal centro palato in poi. Un blend di 50% Sangiovese e 50% Merlot. Meglio dal 2023. |
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| Mazzei | Chianti Classico | Castello Fonterutoli Gran Selezione | 2018 | 96 | Rosso | |
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Ciliegia, marasca, violetta selvatica e cedro in pezzi sono i sentori principali che animano la scena sensoriale. Si alternano note agrumate di lime, pompelmo e bergamotto che allietano la preparazione al sorso. Corpo medio, tannini di egregia fattura rifiniti e perfettamente mature ed un finale luminoso di media lunga progressione. Meglio dal 2023. |
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| Mazzei | Toscana | Concerto | 2018 | 95 | Rosso | |
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Profondo ed intenso nel colore questo giovane blend vivace ed integro nel frutto mostra note di prugne nere, more selvatiche, bacche di ginepro, buccia di arancia e chiodi di garofano. In sottofondo regala nuance di cioccolato fondente e graspo spezzato e peperone verde. Corpo medio, tannini mordenti che mostrano carattere ed un finale scorrevole di media densità che si offre sin da subito. Sparito dal mercato dal 1995 al 2010 ritorna nel 2011 per raccontare la visione di un blend di 80% Sangiovese e 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Best from 2022. |
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Vini Bianchi
| Produttore | Denominazione | Vino | Annata | Score | Tipo | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mazzei | Vermentino Maremma Toscana | Codice V | 2019 | 95 | Bianco | |
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Un naso complesso ed accattivante regala pienezza sensoriale nelle note di gelsomino, fiori di sambuco, ananas poco maturo, mango in pezzi, lime tritato e miele di acacia. Corpo medio-pieno, struttura lineare e verticale stratificata e di grande pregio ed un finale teso e moderno che conquista il palato proprio di tutti. Nove mesi di macerazione sulle bucce in parte in anfora ed in parte in acciaio. Un 50% affina in acciaio per 9 mesi su fecce fini ed un 50% in anfora. Bevi ora o invecchia. |
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